![]() Which one do you need? Well, for 90% of beginner to intermediate woodworking, a 1/4” shank is more than plenty. A good full-size router will come with 1/4” and 1/2” collets to give the user some flexibility. So, for example, you may find a 1/4” radius round over bit in both 1/4” and 1/2” sizes, but big panel-raising bits come in the 1/2” or larger size. Larger diameter bitsneed thicker shanks to work correctly. Thicker diameter shanks belong to larger routers, as the increase in metal dampens any “chatter” or shaking the bit may have while in use. A 1/2″ collet in my hand, while the trim router has a 1/4″ collet.īy controlling the router bit’s movement via bases, jigs and depth of cut, the router can create any number of cool effects. It spins at an incredible rate of speed, cutting out its profile into the wood. The bit (as in, drill bit, router bit, spade bit, etc.) is the business end of the router. This refers to the diameter of the shank of a router bit. Most router bits come in two sizes, 1/4” and 1/2”. Notice that the plunge and fixed base routers are the same model. From R to L: Trim Router, Plunge Router, Fixed Base Router. If you are building furniture, get the larger router. If you expect to work small jobs, such as light edge treatments, small boxes, inlay, signs, etc, I suggest buying the small trim router. Full-size routers range from 2 hp to 3 hp. ![]() Small routers, often called trim routers, can handle any small to medium sized job, such as building small boxes, simple joinery and edge treatments. Horsepower is the most important consideration to start with when buying a router. A handheld router with a plunge base on top of my home brew router table set up. Lastly, routers can be used in two ways – as handheld machines or mounted underneath a tabletops. ![]() Routers can be defined by motor horsepower, collet size (usually 1/4” and 1/2”) and base type (plunge or fixed). Routers come in many different classes and types.
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